How to Fix Stuck and Dead Pixels: Complete Guide
Identify, diagnose, and attempt to fix defective pixels on any LCD, OLED, or Mini-LED display.
Identify, diagnose, and attempt to fix defective pixels on any LCD, OLED, or Mini-LED display.
Last updated: February 2026
Finding a pixel defect on a brand-new monitor is one of the most frustrating experiences in tech. You have researched panels, compared specs, waited for delivery, and then a single tiny dot on an otherwise flawless screen becomes all you can see. Before you attempt a fix or file a warranty claim, it helps to understand exactly what has gone wrong at the hardware level.
Every pixel on an LCD panel is controlled by one or more thin-film transistors (TFTs). On a standard RGB sub-pixel layout, each visible pixel consists of three sub-pixels, red, green, and blue, each with its own transistor. These transistors act as switches that control how much light from the backlight passes through the liquid-crystal layer and the color filter above it. When a transistor malfunctions, the sub-pixel it controls either gets stuck in one state or stops responding entirely.
OLED displays work differently: each pixel is a self-emitting organic diode that produces its own light. There is no backlight or liquid-crystal layer. Defective OLED pixels can appear as permanently lit (stuck on), permanently dark (dead), or as a sub-pixel emitting the wrong color. The underlying cause is a defect in the organic material or its driving circuit.
Before attempting any fix, the first step is to identify exactly what kind of defect you have. Use our Pixel Test tool to display solid red, green, blue, white, and black screens across your entire panel, which makes even subtle defects easy to spot.
A stuck pixel has one or more sub-pixels permanently fixed in the "on" position. This means the pixel appears as a constant bright dot of color against any background. A stuck red sub-pixel appears as a red dot on a black screen, but may be invisible or hard to see against a red background. Stuck pixels are the most common type of defect and also the most likely to be fixable, because the transistor is still functional, just locked in one state.
A dead pixel has one or more sub-pixels permanently stuck in the "off" position. The result is a tiny dark dot, most visible against light backgrounds. On a white screen, a fully dead pixel (all three sub-pixels off) appears as a black dot. If only one or two sub-pixels are dead, the pixel will appear as a dark version of the remaining color. Dead pixels are much harder to fix because the transistor has typically failed entirely, meaning no electrical signal can reach the liquid crystal to change its state.
A hot pixel is always fully lit, regardless of the intended color. On a black screen, it shines as a bright white dot. This occurs when all sub-pixel transistors are stuck open, allowing maximum backlight through. Hot pixels are visually the most distracting of all defects because they stand out starkly against dark scenes. They are moderately fixable, similar to stuck pixels, since the transistors are powered but stuck rather than dead.
Sometimes the defect affects only one of the three sub-pixels, making it visible only under certain conditions. A single dead red sub-pixel, for example, means the pixel can still display colors that do not require red (like pure green or pure blue), but anything involving red, including white, will appear slightly off. These partial defects are harder to notice in normal use and often only discovered during a dedicated pixel test.
Pixel defects have several root causes, and understanding them helps set realistic expectations about whether a fix is possible.
The most common and least risky fix for stuck pixels is pixel-flashing, also called pixel exercising or pixel jogging. The concept is simple: rapidly cycle the defective pixel through all possible color states (red, green, blue, white, black) at high speed. The theory is that the rapid state changes can "un-stick" a transistor that has locked into one position, much like repeatedly flicking a stuck light switch might free it.
Here is how to do it:
Pixel-flashing has a success rate estimated at 50 to 60 percent for genuinely stuck pixels. It is completely safe for the panel and will not cause additional damage. However, it is unlikely to fix true dead pixels where the transistor has completely failed, since the technique depends on the transistor still being responsive to electrical signals.
The pressure method involves applying gentle physical pressure to the area around the stuck pixel to mechanically realign the liquid crystals or shift the transistor. This method carries more risk than pixel-flashing because improper pressure can damage surrounding pixels, but when done carefully, it has a reasonable success rate.
Some guides recommend applying pressure while simultaneously running a pixel-flashing tool, combining both methods. This dual approach is the most aggressive fix available to end users and is worth trying before resorting to a warranty claim.
A less common technique involves applying gentle heat to the area around the stuck pixel. The idea is that warming the liquid-crystal layer slightly reduces its viscosity, allowing the crystals to realign. This method should be used with extreme caution.
Never use a hair dryer, heat gun, or any concentrated heat source on your monitor. LCD panels are sensitive to temperature extremes, and excessive heat can cause far more damage than a single stuck pixel. This method is best considered a last resort before pursuing a warranty claim.
If self-repair does not work, your next option is a warranty claim. Each manufacturer has its own pixel defect policy, and it is worth knowing the terms before you buy.
| Manufacturer | Pixel Policy |
|---|---|
| Dell | Zero bright pixel defect policy on UltraSharp and most monitors. Even one bright stuck pixel qualifies for replacement. |
| Apple | Allows replacement for any pixel anomaly on Retina displays, though technicians have some discretion. |
| LG | Follows ISO 9241-307 Class II for most consumer panels. Up to 5 sub-pixel defects may be tolerated. |
| Samsung | Varies by model line. Premium monitors often have stricter policies than budget panels. |
| ASUS | Zero bright pixel policy on ROG and ProArt lines. Standard models follow a more permissive threshold. |
| BenQ | Zero bright pixel on certain professional lines (SW series). Standard policy for consumer models. |
When filing a warranty claim, document the defective pixel clearly. Photograph the screen displaying a solid color that makes the defect visible. Note the pixel's approximate location (for example, "center-left, about 3 inches from the bottom edge"). Most manufacturers will accept photographic evidence submitted with an online support ticket. Some may require you to ship the monitor for inspection.
Whether to attempt a fix yourself or go straight to a return or warranty claim depends on several factors:
While you cannot fully prevent pixel defects (most are manufacturing imperfections present from day one), you can minimize the risk of developing new ones and catch existing ones early.
OLED monitors and televisions have become increasingly popular for their perfect blacks, infinite contrast, and vibrant colors. However, OLED technology introduces some unique pixel defect considerations.
On an OLED panel, each pixel is an independent organic light emitter. There is no backlight, so a dead pixel on an OLED appears as a truly black dot on any color background, which is even more noticeable than a dead pixel on an LCD, where the backlight still bleeds through slightly. Stuck OLED pixels, where one or more sub-pixels remain permanently lit, are relatively rare but do occur.
The pixel-flashing technique can work on stuck OLED pixels, but the pressure method is not recommended for OLED panels. OLED glass substrates are thinner and more fragile than LCD panels, and the organic layer is extremely sensitive to mechanical stress. Applying pressure could cause permanent damage far worse than the original stuck pixel.
OLED panels are also susceptible to burn-in, which is a gradual, permanent degradation rather than a sudden pixel failure. Manufacturers mitigate this with pixel-shift features (subtle periodic movement of the entire image), logo luminance reduction, and automatic brightness limiting for static content. Following these built-in protections and avoiding static high-brightness content are the best preventive measures.
A stuck pixel is a pixel that remains permanently lit in one color (usually red, green, or blue) because one of its sub-pixel transistors is stuck in the "on" position. A dead pixel is completely black because all transistors have failed and no light passes through. Stuck pixels are often fixable; dead pixels usually are not.
True dead pixels, where the transistor has permanently failed, are extremely difficult to fix without professional repair or panel replacement. Pixel-flashing and pressure techniques occasionally revive pixels that appear dead but are actually deeply stuck. If these methods do not work within a few hours of attempts, the pixel is likely permanently dead.
No. Pixel defects are isolated to the individual transistor and do not spread to neighboring pixels. However, if you notice multiple new stuck or dead pixels appearing in a short time frame, it may indicate a broader panel defect or a failing driver board, which could affect more pixels over time.
It depends on the manufacturer's policy. Some brands like Dell and Apple offer zero-tolerance policies for bright (stuck) pixels. Others follow the ISO 9241-307 standard, which allows a certain number of defective pixels based on the panel class. Check your specific manufacturer's warranty terms before purchasing.
Start with 20 to 30 minutes. If the stuck pixel shows signs of improvement, continue for up to a few hours. If there is no change after an hour, try the pressure method instead or combine both approaches. Running pixel-flashing overnight is safe for the panel and occasionally fixes stubborn stuck pixels.